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Breeding Cockatiels Part 1
The information provided on
these 2 pages are not
meant to replace the advice or recommendations of your avian vet. She/he is the best source of information when breeding birds.
If you are having problems with a baby, please take it to see an avian vet
immediately.
Cockatiels should be at
least 18 months old before you breed them. Males younger than this can be
infertile and females can suffer physical complications such as egg binding.
Babies can be born weak and less healthy.
Do not breed cockatiels that are related to each other and have the same bloodline.
Inbreeding in birds causes the same problems as inbreeding in humans. Babies can
be born with physical abnormalities such as missing toes, deformed wings as
well as problems with their internal organs.
Only breed birds that are from different bloodlines. Do not let your cockatiels
breed more than 2 clutches of eggs a year. Laying more than this puts
physical strain on their bodies and they can get sick. Breeding season is from Spring to early Fall when
there is a longer period of sunlight each day. Your birds need to rest
during the remainder of the year to build up strength for the next breeding season.
The presence of a nestbox
encourages breeding. Use the proper size, wooden nestbox for cockatiels. Eggs
laid on the bottom of the cage floor rarely hatch. If your breeding pair does
lay eggs on the floor, you can either put them in a small bowl that has been
lined with cut up white paper towels or put the eggs inside of a nestbox which is
lined with nesting material. They should nest on the eggs either way. Do not use liter, corncob, cedar or pine chips/shavings as a nesting material. Use white paper
towels that are either shredded or cut up into strips. This will give
the babies a firm grip on the floor and help prevent splayed legs.
Make a small dent in the center of the nesting material.
This is called a nest bowl and will keep the eggs from rolling around. Eggs that
are rolled or suffer trauma may not hatch
Eggs that are rolled around briskly or suffer trauma will addle and not
hatch. Addle means that the contents of the eggs have been shaken or scrambled inside of the shell. When
this happens the embryos are destroyed and won't hatch. Some breeders deliberately do this when they do not
want eggs to hatch. If you deliberately kill a baby this way it's the same thing as a bird abortion.
If done at all, I only approve of it when 2 birds that are closely related have started to breed
by accident. Their babies are born
less healthy and will be more susceptible to infections and illnesses. This is a moral issue and the decision to addle an egg rests with an individual's conscience.
I personally do not agree with the practice unless the health of a chick would be severely affected, such as with inbreeding
related birds by mistake.
Eggs are laid about 7-10 days after a pair mates and are usually laid every 48
hours until the clutch is complete. You should know and be able to recognize the
symptoms of egg binding to get help for the female if she needs it. (Egg binding
information can be found on the link at the bottom of this page). The size of the clutch can
range from 2-8 eggs. The female will have very large and odorous droppings
during this time. She will hold it in and wait until morning to relieve herself.
Sometimes the
parents will not start nesting on the eggs as soon as they are
laid and will wait until 2 or 3 eggs are laid. The purpose of this
is so that most of the eggs will hatch around
the same time. Eggs do not start to incubate until they are nested on and get warm.
They can stay viable for up to 7 days before they really need to be nested upon.
You must provide a bowl of water for the birds inside of the cage. The female will wet her lower body feathers and
sit on the eggs. She does this to keep the eggs moist and maintain the proper humidity level so the embryo doesn't
die. Your birds will also turn the eggs once every hour during
the day and some pairs will also turn them during the night. This helps all of
the organs to develop properly. If you notice eggs that are cracked you can safely repair them by applying
a coat of white, non-toxic, water soluble glue such as Elmer's glue or school
glue. Larger cracks can be repaired by placing a piece of sterile gauze over it and then
applying several coats of glue. Wait 30 minutes between applications. Repaired eggs need to be watched closely during hatching. The chick may
have trouble breaking through the seal and may need assistance from an avian vet.
If the peeping sounds start to get weaker, it's time to take
the egg to the vet for help or the baby will die inside of the shell from lack
of oxygen.
Both the male and female birds
take turns nesting on the eggs. Do not separate
the pair. Sometimes fights can occur between the male and female, especially
during the egg laying process, but this is
normal. The female may get upset if the male wants to come
inside of the nestbox. This usually changes once the babies hatch. She needs the
father's help to feed the babies. You may see the parents squabbling for a few minutes then
cuddling and preening each other a little later. Do not remove a partner unless the other is being injured
from attacks or if one of them is severely plucking out the feathers of the
babies.
Each cockatiel egg will hatch 18-21
days after it was laid. Candle the eggs to see if they
are fertile. Either purchase a special candling light or hold the eggs up to a
very bright flashlight in a dark room. Fertile eggs will have a red, spider like shape present.
There will be a clearly defined, red circle in the center of the shape. Put a mark on
each egg with a permanent, soft, felt tipped marker so you will know when the hatch date will be. As it gets close to the hatching date,
candled eggs with chicks growing will appear as a large, dark mass. There
will be a white space at the top of the egg. This is the air sac. You will also
notice a small bump on the outside of the shell. This is called a pip
mark. Babies have a tooth called a pip tooth which is used to help crack the
egg. You may also hear peeping sounds coming from inside of the egg. Babies push
on the egg with their backs up against the shell and their little feet pushed
against the opposite side of the shell. This is what cracks the eggs open so the
chick can hatch.
Babies that just hatch are usually not fed by the parents until
they are 8-12 hours old. The baby already has enough nutrition from absorbing
the yolk sac prior to hatching. Dehydration is the most serious complication during this time.
Some breeders will give the babies 1 drop of warm Pedialyte every hour to
help prevent dehydration. Do not handfeed the baby with formula during this period because the crop is so tiny.
It needs to be stretched out gradually.
As the bird grows and starts to consume more food,
the crop will stretch out gradually by itself.
Both parents take turns feeding the babies. Provide the parents with a
nutritious, soft food diet to feed the babies. They are not picky about foods while they are feeding the chicks. Some
suggested foods include, lightly steamed corn, peas, carrots, broccoli, cooked
sweet potatoes, rice, pasta, beans, oatmeal and most importantly, moistened
breeder's pellets. This is different from the pellets your bird is now eating.
Some breeder do add a very small amount of seeds.
Serve these food whole to your birds or put it through a food processor or blender. You
can make a large batch, freeze it in clean ice cube trays that are wrapped
in cellophane and defrost as needed. Remove any uneaten food from the cage after
30 minutes to prevent bacterial growth. Do NOT give the parents eggs.
Although eggs will not hurt the babies, the parents can get albumin poisoning
from having eggs in their mouth all day long and for so many days.
CLICK HERE
For Breeding Cockatiels Part 2
Photos courtesy of Cheryl, Ellen, Georgia, Gretchen, Nadeana, Lori, Kat, Sophia, Lee, Tracey, and
Carol.
Thank you so much for sharing your babies with me and for teaching me how to breed cockatiels.
Graphics Courtesy of
Graphic Garden
Country Patch Collections
Just Nana's
Page Contents, Layout and Design Copyright Cockatiel Cottage,
All Graphics Copyrighted by Credited Artists and are Not Public Domain
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